Rim size 2007 Silverado classic 2500HD ?

What is the size of the OE rims? For the life of me I cannot find it anywhere? I am assuming it's readily available on the web, but in my advanced age or stupidity I cannot find it??? I'm looking at some new rims and they list the size as 16 X 8, and I might need to do some modification to the fenders or add a lift? As you might have guessed, I do not wish to do such a thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated !

John

Should be on a sticker on your drivers door jam.

Well, well, I am up for biggest dip sh__ of the year ! Thanks Jason

So I guess 16 X 8 isn't going to work as I have 16 x 6.5...

These GM PYO wheels.  16x6.5 with 4.875" backspace +29mm offset.

Staying with a 16" diameter and going to an 8" width most of the additional width will likely be on the outside.  Thus your front bumper and outer edges of the fender liner can become contact points.

There's not a lot of room between the UCA and inner wheel lip with the OEM 16" wheel.  Thus most most of the 8" increase would be pushed to the outside.  On a 16x8 wheel this would likely push the backspace to 4.25" and a negative offset of -12, or -25.  There's also consideration here if the new wheel will clear the brake caliper.  This is largely avoided when most of the new width is on the outside but it should be a consideration on any 16" wheel.

Going to a larger diameter wheel allows for more than OEM backspace, still retaining a positive offset.  For instance going to a 18x8.5  5.25" backspace  +25 offset keeps the wheel relationship close the same center-line as the OEM wheel.  This configuration places the majority of the new wheel width toward the inside, the increased diameter allows for additional space to clear the UCA/ball joint.  This relationship is optimum for clearing the bumper and fender wells if one goes with a conservative tire size.

Great calculator for assessing different tire wheel sizes, offsets and backspace.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

One of the most understated aspects of wheel tire selection is what increased (less numerical backspace and offset) requires a trucks front steering components.  There are astronomical increases introduced to steering effort when widening the trucks track.  Example, move a 10lb object across a table with your hand contracting at your elbow.  Easy.  Now do the same with a broom stick standing 5 feet away, no so easy.  Similar resistance is now transmitted and required of the OEM steering to overcome to perform the same movement.

Tie rods, idler, pitman, steering gears.  All pushed likely past their design limits.  Maintenance usually occurs much sooner than in an OEM config.  Heavier wheel/tire (unsprung) weight negatively impacts longevity of same components and shocks/bushings.

Thank you for taking the time to type out that explanation joemac, very informative ! So I guess I need to find a black oem type rim other than painted, if such a thing exsists? So now I must ask joe, would it be in my best interest to go back to 245/75/16 tires instead of 265/75/16?

Are you looking to change the aesthetics on your truck to all black wheels?

Which wheels do you have?

Aluminum PYO


Steel


Chrome Clad


On the OEM wheels you should be able to run the 265/75/16 with no issue.  No lift, no cranking of the torsion bars.  Going to the 285/75/16 can be done, however there are negatives.  The tire is really too wide for a 6.5" wheel.  I've run the 6.5" wide wheel with Michelin M/S without any issue for years.

On a steel wheel or potentially others you can have them powder coated with a choice of finishes, flat, satin, gloss.  Prices will vary from $50 per wheel to $150 in most circumstances.

I had steel when new as my truck is a WT class, I got some aluminum PYO's on now that have taken a bit of a weather beating, I did coat them with plati-dip which is a flat black rubberized coating that can be literally peeled off and reapplied. Looking for the gloss black look but want to maintain stock steering/suspension, keep my 265's and not break the bank getting black rims.

I would search your local area for powder coating companies. Most will be able to prep, and coat with a multitude choice of colors.

Years ago bought a set of blemished wheels for a Camaro, had them blasted and coated. The result was good, I slightly missed the color choice I had intended. Sometimes hard with color splotches to pick the right one, or the color is simply a little different versus the finished product.

joemac wrote:

I would search your local area for powder coating companies.  Most will be able to prep, and coat with a multitude choice of colors.

Years ago bought a set of blemished wheels for a Camaro, had them blasted and coated.  The result was good, I slightly missed the color choice I had intended.  Sometimes hard with color splotches to pick the right one, or the color is simply a little different versus the finished product.

Thanks, going to be tough,as the PYO's are the only rims I got !

I've seen a truck on cinder blocks once or twice. Usually without the owner's knowledge.

joemac wrote:

I've seen a truck on cinder blocks once or twice.  Usually without the owner's knowledge.

How about some 8 bolt trailer wheels?

8 lug trailer wheels

hmmmmm joemac comment?

Running a trailer wheel is a possibility.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/Dexstar/AM20766.html

Without any scientific assessment I would be cautious. The trailer wheels are rated to a stated 3750 lbs. No idea the load specification of the GM OEM's. Manufacturer wheels without a doubt are tested and validated more so on the intended application by a factor of many.

The sole black wheel pictured is 6" wide versus the OEM 6.5".

Not certain if the stud holes, and hub ring is a match to the GM wheel/hub size. The GM wheels are hub-centric. Meaning the engineered intent is that the hub ring on the wheel is a perfect machined match to the hub. The hub is used to center the wheel, not the lugs as on some other vehicles.

Not certain the wheel will clear the OEM brake caliper.

It's implied but not stated that the BS is straight up at wheel centerline 3" with an offset of +.5.

The trailer wheel/tire will stick out from the body nearly an inch compared to the OEM wheels.

joemac wrote:

Running a trailer wheel is a possibility.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/Dexstar/AM20766.html

Without any scientific assessment I would be cautious. The trailer wheels are rated to a stated 3750 lbs.  No idea the load specification of the GM OEM's.  Manufacturer wheels without a doubt are tested and validated more so on the intended application by a factor of many.

The sole black wheel pictured is 6" wide versus the OEM 6.5".

Not certain if the stud holes, and hub ring is a match to the GM wheel/hub size.  The GM wheels are hub-centric.  Meaning the engineered intent is that the hub ring on the wheel is a perfect machined match to the hub.  The hub is used to center the wheel, not the lugs as on some other vehicles.

Not certain the wheel will clear the OEM brake caliper.

It's implied but not stated that the BS is straight up at wheel centerline 3" with an offset of +.5.

The trailer wheel/tire will stick out from the body nearly an inch compared to the OEM wheels.

Again, I really appreciate the time and effort to type out your response, great info. Looks like powder coating my wheels, or another set of PYO's is the way I'm leaning????

Would appear so. Also check out ebay, craigslist, and other classified ad sites to see if you can't find a set for good value. Even the OEM steel wheels would look pretty decent in black.

joemac wrote:

Would appear so.  Also check out ebay, craigslist, and other classified ad sites to see if you can't find a set for good value.  Even the OEM steel wheels would look pretty decent in black.

Found some nice steel rims for 250, free shipping !

Now your talking! Nice find. With that you have your choice to power coat your aluminum or the steel wheels.

joemac wrote:

Without any scientific assessment I would be cautious. The trailer wheels are rated to a stated 3750 lbs.  No idea the load specification of the GM OEM's.

3042 lbs I believe is the rating for the standard E-rated tires and RAWR is usually 6K or less.

Those 3750 rims are for 7K trailer axles that see higher side loads than a truck wheel so I wouldn't be concerned about strength. Now the hub centric is another story. Worth noting when I had forged Weld wheels they were rated for 3200 lbs but had over sized center hole and were only held by the studs.

On my current truck I have Dodge Ram rims that don't touch the hubs either, hey there's an option! 1994-00 Ram 2500 rims. They are steel with a stainless overlay.