Moving, agin

Leaving the dreary NE Ohio are for Columbia Tennessee.
It is about 45 minutes south of Nashville. Should be a nice change of pace, will hate to loose the shop but will try and build another, again...

Best of luck with your move Dan.

Moving is always fun, right?

Good luck Dan. We get down that way a few times a year. I am guessing maybe 1 1/2 hours away.

Hope all goes well. Moving can be incredibly stressful. So what brought on this change?

Transfer within the company.

Diesel Dan wrote:

Leaving the dreary NE Ohio are for Columbia Tennessee.
It is about 45 minutes south of Nashville. Should be a nice change of pace, will hate to loose the shop but will try and build another, again...

All the best during your move and in your new home ... moving and setting up a new house ain't never easy ... DW insists the only way we're moving again is if they carry us out. Sure wished we could of met when you lived in this neck of the woods.

Finally have internet access in the camper!
Had to buy a wifi booster.

Will post some pics when I get a chance but bought a used(very?) 36' 1991 Fleetwood Regal 5th wheel for the trip. One small slide but it's a heavy sum-bitch, top of the line in it's day, even has a dual fuel 4K Onan generator, washer/dryer combo and shocks on the axles!

The old 6.5 had its hands full on that trip, 8.4 MPG while the Cruze Diesel got 51 mpg.

Looking at a small home for a base and then some bare land, 10+acres, to build a new house this time.

Rusty,

When I get around to building and need help setting trusses it might be a good time for you and Rich to come visit!

Just name the time and place and I will be there.

Been a while but have some updates.
Purchased just over 12 acres and building a new "Shouse" or "HARN". Basically a two story house with a LARGE attached garage.
Building dimensions will be 40x72x17.5 tall. House will be 24x40 two stories and shop will be 40x48 with a 17.5' ceiling.

Block work

Modified septic after inspection. Went with a better parallel drain field instead of a series type. Only building with 3 bedrooms but had the septic sized for 4, just in case.

Above code with 3 rows of #4 rebar in footers
]
Code does not require any rebar turn ups connecting the footing to the walls, I did them every 4' around the perimeter

Putting the old 6.5TD to work.

Looks awesome. I really like those kinds of buildings. I've looked at them and wanted one for the garage on bottom and a shop area, no living area. But make the upstairs a man cave type place.

Like these

https://www.mysheds.com/carriage-style-garages.asp

or

https://www.mysheds.com/mega-garages.asp

Looking good Dan.

My little home away from home that returned the 8.4 MPG.
You can just make out the 2nd gen Dodge towing mirrors I installed for the trip.]

Had the driver side exhaust manifold flange rot away and cause a bad leak recently. Upgraded to a 4" exhaust, after 16+ years and 155K miles the original exhaust was still good! The down pipe and crossover was replaced about 10 yrs ago with a flowmaster kit and that rusted out, still can't complain since the truck spent its entire life in the rust belt.

Rich, made sure the contractors keep the footer mix to a max of 5" slump. Luckily it rained the next day and kept the footers wet for a couple of days as well. Spec'ing out a low w/c ratio for the slab as well to reduce shrinking and curling of the slab, many contractors don't want to deal with that. Doing 10 mil vapor barrier and #4 rebar on 2' grid pattern. Thinking about pinning the slab to the walls as well. The walls will be core filled with grout or pea gravel concrete. Made a form of a "bond beam" or collar around the top of the wall. Notched the blocks 1 course down and have one run of #4 rebar running horizontally.

J-bolts will extend to the footers.


Working on underground utilities right now.
Bringing power to the car lift under the slab this time. Running a 2" PVC chase under the shop floor as well.


Bringing 400A of 220V under ground to the building, 200A panel for living area and 200A for shop. 3.5" rigid metal tubing is expensive but I'm doing it how I want this time. Also going with 16" standing seam (hidden fastener) roofing and drop end gable trusses for wind resistance.

"Rich, made sure the contractors keep the footer mix to a max of 5" slump. Luckily it rained the next day and kept the footers wet for a couple of days as well. Spec'ing out a low w/c ratio for the slab as well to reduce shrinking and curling of the slab, many contractors don't want to deal with that. Doing 10 mil vapor barrier and #4 rebar on 2' grid pattern. Thinking about pinning the slab to the walls as well. The walls will be core filled with grout or pea gravel concrete. Made a form of a "bond beam" or collar around the top of the wall. Notched the blocks 1 course down and have one run of #4 rebar running horizontally."


I have no clue what most of that meant but sounds like you're doing it the best way possible.

It means Dan is doing it right. Tight concrete mix with less water makes it stronger. Filling the wall with grout is a good idea. I don't know if you need to pin the slab to the walls if the soil is compacted correctly, but it does depend on whether you have a high water table and the slab gets wet on occasion.
Most people don't realize how important it is to keep the concrete wet once it has initially set up. Concrete needs to cure slow and the water takes the heat out of the process allowing It not to cure too fast.

1/2" rebar, you can park your tank on that lol.

The boxes for the septic should work well, I did a job at work 2 years ago where I had 7 boxes replaced and each box had 4" PVC pipes 100' long  extend out of them. Kids in pickup trucks did donuts on the leach field and did a lot of damage.

Let me know when you need help, I finish school in June but have been know to block out time off like I did this weekend taking off Friday and Monday.

More progress over the weekend.
If you look at the 3" header along the back wall the first 2" tee-wye is where the wall will separate the living space from shop, everything to the right will be shop area and will have a 3/4 bath with toilet, sink and shower.

10' channel floor drain being set.


That dirt is not shovelable at this point. All trenching is done with a good ole fashioned pick mattock.

Even floor drains! Which room did you say was mine?
I am glad to see the construction is moving along, and the surrounding views are great. Keep us posted, and seriously if you need a hand, let me know. I'm older and slower but still have the construction gene in me working well.

This time we are paying somebody to put the shell up.
I'll be finishing the interior, second floor etc.
When I get to setting the floor trusses I'll keep you in mind. Longest will be 28'x 15" tall engineered trusses that will cantilever 4' into the shop area for a small mezzanine accessing a door to the second floor so I can use the tractor loader to lift furniture, no more carrying up the stairs!

Sounds like you've used a lot of previous hind-sight to come up with your layout Dan. Looking forward to seeing the result. Any chance you could post the plan?

View from the road. Dashed line shows separation of living/shop areas.


Driveway view of big doors.


View from back yard, up hill.


No CAD drawings, just hand sketches. More than I had on the Ohio pole barn, that was done without any prints just in my head.
Amazing I ended up with only one shed with all those voices giving advice.

Link to the build on garage journal.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312348

Awesome!

Setting trusses today, 35 centers and 2 drop end gables.
Even that can't go properly for me. Framers called in the crane(my expense) but were not ready. They were cutting spacers as they went, 2hrs in the lift died since they didn't charge it all week and their generator won't run a saw and the lifts charger so I'm paying the crane to sit while the lift charges.

Then half way through they realize they mis-calculated on the amount of 2x4s to brace so I took the day off from work to run and get lumber to make sure they get finished.

Oh, did I mention I needed 35 center trusses?
Truss company only sent 34!

At least it is starting to look like a building.

Damn truss companies! Did I mention I just started a new job four weeks ago hauling trusses and other building components. We do get down to the Great Lakes region of the States too, but not Tennessee. Good luck with the rest of your build.

That stinks that you have to pay the crane to sit because THEY didnt charge it. I'd have a big problem with that.

I hope it gets to going better and gets over with soon.

Contractors used to get mad at me as an inspector as the boss required that someone watch the job when a contractor was working. They will take all the short cuts they can. Right off the bat, I would put in writing that you will not pay the 2 hours for the crane, and will deduct the time used to get the material they shorted in the count.
Contractors are like your own kids, it would be nice if they like you, but your job is to raise them properly, which means be on site whenever they are there, and record what they do in a number paged book. What you write in your book will be used as evidence if something goes wrong. All the pages have to be in the book for this to be accepted by a judge.
Always write date, weather, number of workers, foreman, and equipment on the job site. Even if a worker gets a small cut and keeps on working, record it.

What was the purpose of the lift anyway, we just use the crane.

I think I get it now, to lift someone to set them somehow. We have one guy on the front, one on the back and one walking the middle nailing a spacer. By the time the operator has the next truss we're ready for it. Usually takes 1 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on how cut up the roof is. We also pick out straight 12 footers and brace the walls on the inside. After the roof and walls are sheeted we take the braces down and use them for fascia. Takes us 2 days to frame in 1300 sf spec houses. Had one guy who had a standing $10,000 bet that he could do it himself in one day, nobody took him up on it. He and my brother built 72 houses in one year by themselves. No crane, pushed trusses up by hand. That's frame, siding, roof, trim and landscape yard.

The lift that died was a electric scissor style man lift that the framers are using, $500/week.

Called the crane co. and found out what the bill is, $1480 for 8hrs.

Truss co. was called at 1:30PM about the missing one and it was delivered that day between 3:30-4:30 PM. They stepped up and delivered, IMO.

I'm biting my tongue right now so the don't walk off. Building is so red hot in this area you can't find anybody on short notice not counting craigslist specials. This framer hung up his tools 3 years ago when his son hung himself in his bedroom and has recently started getting back to work but can't get any of his old crew back. IMO, he took on a job too big for his current "crew" to finish in a timely manner and he under bid the job.

Contract? There is none, just supplied him with the layout and materials. He said if I buy the nails he'd do it for $3/sq. ft. which is walls, trusses, sheathing, house wrap, roofing underlayment and windows-doors. Labor should be $8640. Been paying weekly and still have ~5K to go so negotiations have yet to begin.

Project will be on week two as of tomorrow.
Kinda burns me that we had a rain day on last Tuesday but nobody showed up Saturday to make up for lost time.