Need to replace front axel differential seal.

Front drivers seal has been leaking for about a month. I noticed it while changing the oil.
I watched about a dozen YouTube videos on how to do it. Most where posted by DYI guys. I thought I had it down and would take around 4 hours. My son and I worked on it, had the CV disconnected but still could get the joint far enough to pull the axel.
After watching several more longer YouTubes, I see I have to disconnect more of the front end to be able to pull the axel. It looks like I am going to have to borrow a tool from AutoZone, buy a puller, or take a chance in hitting with a hammer which I really don't feel comfortable doing. I think this will turn into a 6-7 job in the driveway, not the ideal spot working outside. I would ask the auto mechanics teacher to do it but I just had him do struts, shocks, align the front end and rotate the tires, and figure out why some codes come on for 10 minutes, go away and come back a month later. $30 in donuts for his class.

Going off memory from 20 yrs ago. Would just drop the whole diff assembly.

-remove vent line and electrical connectors (if it has a CAD)
-remove front drive shaft u-joint straps
-remove bolts from axle flanges (12 total)
-remove driver side mounting bolts (2)
-remove passenger side mounting bolts (2)
-turn steering all the way to right for center link clearance (older trucks didn't have rack and pinion)
-diff ready to wiggle out

If replacing the right hand seal stand diff on LH flange. Hit the under side of the RH flange with a good sized hammer and axle should pop out. Only held in with a small snap ring.

Fastest I could do both seals in a GMT400 on a good day was 15-20 minutes. That was dropping the whole diff assembly, took much longer trying to do one side in the truck. With a lift and air tools though. Still want power tools for the bolts, IMO, if doing on the ground.

I had it 75% apart last week before I realized that I still had to do more to get to the axel. I can do it, 6 bolts on the axel flange. Today, I am going into school at 10:30 so I'm going to see the auto shop teacher. Yesterday he knocked out the Civic and it cost me parts and donuts. I guess the hard part is knowing I can do the job, but my body will pay dearly doing it at home in the driveway.
Good tip on the center link clearance.
Thanks

I talked to the auto shop teacher today. He said bring in the parts and he will do it Wednesday before we go on Easter break.

Good deal, much easier on a lift.

Oh yea. Besides getting donuts for the class, the teacher likes duck eggs. That is something I have an abundance of this time of year. On Monday the auto shop teacher and the chef will each get two dozen duck eggs. If I don't have time to make lunch in the morning the chef will always make something special - low carbs for me no charge. Take care of the people that take care of you.

Sounds like a heck of a deal.

Got the axel seal replaced today. I also had them put in a new CV joint and stabilizer links. I thought since the seal was coming out I might as well do the CV joint now rather than later. The joint was a little over $80 from Rock Auto. Truck feels good with the stabilizers, less front end rattle. All spend $120 plus the cost of donuts. I had bought 2 quarts of front differential gear oil which I didn't need. I had changed it last July, put it to overflow level when I saw the leak. The shop teacher and myself agreed that barely a drop of fluid was lost with the seal change and no need to drain and replace good oil. Went back to Auto Zone and returned the oil $27.